After settling and resting in our Airbnb we decide to immerse ourselves in the atmosphere of the capital.

After wandering for five days in the streets of Istanbul, we decide to rent a car to discover the Asian part of Turkey.

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The kebab and turkish ice cream experience.

Istanbul is a city with a massive history and culture. Their kebabs are delicious and possibly one of my favorite foods. There are many different types to choose from such as lamb, chicken and beef. They usually will have something called a mixed kebab which is my favorite, because they combine all of the meat with many vegetables and it makes the perfect meal.

 After the Kebab you must try the authentic Turkish ice cream. The ice cream is very sweet and delicious. It can really cool you off from a hot day. The ice cream merchant will start to perform a show. He would start by taunting you by holding your ice cream with a metal rod. He would eventually take the ice  cream from the rod and hand it to you.  It was very entertaining! These are two very delicious and one of a kind type of meals you must try while visiting Istanbul.

The history of Kebab

The origins of Turkey kebabs are from the Ottoman Empire time period. The word “kebab” is derived from the Persian word “kabob”, which means “to fry”. It is believed that Turkish soldiers first started cooking meat on skewers over open fires during wars. The tradition then spread to people’s lives, and eventually became a popular dish in homes and restaurants across Turkey.

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It is time to change of country and almost of continent… heading to Turkey!

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We decide to stay few more days for severals reasons: The children need to catch up on school, my parents are coming to bring us the suitcase containing the rest of our things that we will send by post to Santiago and Janet is not feeling very well, surely because of fatigue…

We do the COVID test just in case…

Positive!!! OMG and my parents are on the way! … She will wear a mask.

We will still spend a good time with them.

Leon

After lengthening our stay in Burgos by one day so that Janet can continue to recover from the Covid. I buy train tickets for Leon the next big city, it also allows us to avoid the most boring part of the path.

Ouch! I got the wrong days and our tickets are out of date and of course there are no more trains and buses available, Panic! We have a reservation planned in an Albergue… No choice: Hep Taxi!

Mission accomplished! We made it! We stay in the old town which looks very festive. After a few tapas the children stay at the hostel and we leave for a romantic evening walk.

Astorga

A new long day awaits us and it promises to be very hot with a fairly steep path but a postcard landscape.

 We sometimes have to cross the highway which is very busy with trucks.

It is time for us to arrive at Astorga..

We take advantage with Janet to take a tour of the city to admire its Gothic cathedral and the episcopal palace designed by Gaudi

Molinaseca

We have to catch up on our delay so it’s a new long walk that awaits us today.  We are going more and more into the mountain ranges.

We will pass by the famous cross where pilgrims leave a personal object.

We will also visit the hermit hut.

After a long steep descent and a few crossings of picturesque villages, we arrive at our destination: Molinaseca.

Las Herrerias

We leave the hostel early pushed by a rather grumpy host. The taxi that will advance us a little will confirm its reputation.

This morning we follow the road for the majority of the way. It is a very green landscape that surrounds us.

We arrive at Las Herrerias which has a fell of an alpine village crossed by a pretty little river where we refresh ourselves.

O Cebreiro

Departure in the morning mist towards O Cebreiro.

On the way we meet our first family of four children, they come from Israel.

If there is a village that I had to choose on the Camino I think it would be this one. By its location and its architectural and picturesque charm. It reminds me of my childhood vacation village.

Fronfria

After spending the night in a barn transformed into a dormitory, we start our day by taking more or less steep mountain paths.

But fortunately the walk will be of short duration today because we have not found accommodation for the next stage, only a brand new hotel a few kilometers away.

Ferreiros

Once again we start the day by transport to Sarria, it is from this city that many pilgrims start the camino because it corresponds approximately to the last 100 km necessary to validate the pilgrimage to Santiago.

We will meet many walkers on its rocky trails. Finally we land in a refuge in the middle of the countryside where we will spend the night.

Palas de Rei

Departure rather cool, in a morning mist.

We stopped at a couple of elderly house who have decorated their inner courtyard beautifully, to have breakfast. Journey to rural and verdant Spain.

To enter the city of Portmarin we have to cross a bridge of a dizzying height, the pedestrian way being very narrow it is better to look ahead!

We will finally arrive at Palas De Rei where I will not dwell on the details (it is not a very pleasant city).

Melide

Another beautiful day awaits us, we will meet more and more pilgrims on the way as well as groups of students.

The medieval stone villages delight us.

But the children hurry to get to our next accommodation as quickly as possible, where there is a swimming pool… but not heated. Mixed the capital of the octopus, we will absolutely have to taste the specialty.

A Lavacolla

After a good night of digestion and rest, we begin our penultimate stage towards A Lavacolla, it’s the last 50 kilometers that separate us from Santiago.

It is there that we meet an Australian couple accompanied by two young children who are also traveling le world for a period of four months.

We will end the day in the last dormitory of our Spanish adventure. We must not go to bed late because tomorrow we have to get up early for the final stopover.

Santiago de Compostela

Waking up very early and wet for this ultimate and last stage of our long journey. Indeed we start walking in the light of our headlamps and under a light rain.

Even if the day is not looking good, we remain motivated.

We cross the big city of Santiago in the greyness.

Even if the day is not looking good, we remain motivated to complete this final day of walking.

And it is with a lot of emotions that we take the last steps on the famous square of Santiago like all the other pilgrims. Despite the pain, fatigue and discouragement we complete one of our biggest challenges of this trip. Without really having done the precise calculation, I think that we covered about 350 km (217 miles) on foot with the backpacks except once. It fills us with joy and pride!

We stay another day in Santiago to recuperate and to participate in the famous Botafumerio mass where we are invited by a pilgrim in honor of his deceased brother.

It is now necessary to move on, direction Madrid to take the plane for Turkey.

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 I have liked sooo many stuff and disliked stuff too. I thought the first day was the hardest  , but little did I know it was going to be way harder the next day. That day was unimaginable, uphill for like 7 hours , but I learned a French song to keep my mind off  walking.  On our way up we saw a lot of animals , like , cows, horse, and sheep. Speaking of sheep, we saw a Shepard move his sheep across the rode , best IRL scene I have seen with my eyes! I also got to pet a horse and a sheep. After those two days it became way easier.  It went downhill but up in the mountains  it was  sooooooooo pretty!!!!!

The sleeping situation was in an Albergue then apartment then repeat.  Food at the different places are all different in a kind of way . If we were in an Albergue then we would have dinner with the other pilgrims, which was nice.   If we were at an apartment then we went to a restaurant or we made a sandwich. Ohhhh…. Nooooo…… not sandwiches soooo many sandwiches whenever we made lunch we would buy bread meat cheese and lettuce every time!!!!! It was the easiest thing to make. 

Those are my thoughts since we started the Camino. Thanks for reading.

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The first 2 weeks were in France with family getting our bearings together and just enjoying the moment of leaving the states.  Did that really happen??? Incroyable! 

Saint Jean Pied de Port

We started the Camino de Santiago on Monday 9/12/22 with a train ride and bus to Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP- altitude 200m)  The town was bustling with pilgrims.   The line to the Pilgrim’s office was lengthy and everyone was fresh faced and excited. It is staffed with volunteers and the languages ranged from English, Spanish and French, German and Dutch.   To think a few Mondays before, we were back in the states working and getting our lives ready for this journey. 

Plenty of gites were full in town with September still being the busy Pilgrim season and hence we walked 1km uphill to our village de vacance.   Why not start with a place up a hill!!  It was a beautiful spot to spend 2 days- schooling for a day, enjoying the pool and volleyball courts whilst preparing for the Camino.   We’re always preparing for something- LOL! 

Orisson

We decided to break up our first stage of the Camino from SJPP to Roncesvalles by staying overnight in the lovely Auberge  d’Orisson (altitude 800). It was a steep climb and took us just shy of  4 hours.  We trimmed our 1 year travel backpacks, but nothing is light enough for this pilgrimage. We slept in 2 single rooms with shared bathrooms.  It was reminiscent of post university traveling.  We were allotted a 5 minute hot shower that was token operated!   Everyone deserves a hot shower after that steep hike.  In the evening, there was a communal meal with, at least, 50 other pilgrims from all over the world.  Japan, Puerto Rico, Brazil, Bulgaria, plenty of Canadians, Americans, French and Germans.   During dessert Refuge d’Orisson has a wonderful tradition of introducing yourself and why you are walking the Camino de Santiago.  Everyone had a chance to speak and all tried their best to speak in English, which turned out to be the universal language of the night. Lights out at 2200

Roncesvalles

Orisson to Roncesvalles  18km  walk Altitude gain to 1400m

Rise and shine at 0615 

Backpacks ready (6kg to 12kg) – yes, they were heavy

We left at 0800 and arrived at 1530

In the movie, The Sound of Music, Maria  sings of the hills are alive.  Well… walking from Orisson to Roncesvalles crossing the mountain range of the Pyrerees  was more lively than you can imagine.  The green rolling hills against the crisp morning light can make anyone feel mankind is joyful and your troubles are miles away.  

Albergue de Roncesvalles has capacity for about 240 pilgrims and they had already opened up the basement for the excess pilgrims.   Anyone without a spot  was offered a shuttle  to another village that had room. Luckily, for us, we prebooked 2 days prior to departure. This Albergue included a meal with wine for dinner at the restaurant next door.  We dined with an American, a Finn, and Frenchman – it almost sounds like the start of a joke

Pamploma and Estella

The next day instead of walking we took the bus past Pamplona to Estella where we stayed for 2 nights.  Catch up on school work and other home issues. 

Los Arcos and Sansol

Estella to Los Arcos to Sansol 

25 km to Los Arcos and another 9 km to Sansol

This distance  took us through rolling hills and endless fields of already cut wheat.  Wheat for bread, beer and the animals.  The sun was beating down on us and again, those packs…

Our hiking sticks were extremely stabilizing.  They helped propel us forward and balance our torsos.  The path offered very little shade except for a collection of trees off the path.  Pilgrims would congregcame to get respite  from the afternoon sun.    We laid down onthe rocks, dirt and grass listened to the breeze .  Ate our apples, oranges and melted chocolate wafers.  We were content with brief snack.

It was 7.5 hr walk to Arcos and when we arrived, we took a taxi to Sansol as there was no way our  feet were taking us anywhere else.  There was a beautiful square and church filled with pilgrims but no one could care less.  Mutiny was in the air!  The taxi to Sanso was worth the 20 euros. 

We stayed in lovely Palacio de Sansol that was a 300 year palace and  converted to a private Albergue a few years back.

Logrono

Sansol to Logrono 

18 km  walk 

Used baggage transport – We used Jacotrans for 5euros a bag to take our bags to our place in Logrono.

Ironically, we had to be creative with how we held our food and water since normally our backpacks  held them nicely.  

Still 7.5 hours walk because we are slow and have to stop a few times

Fiesta de San Mateo for this week.

It seems like a long slog…. Because it has been but honestly, it has been appealing. 

We have been troubled on multiple occasions, but it all seems to work out. 

Navarrete

Logrono to Navarrete

15km

As we left Logrono you pass a beautiful park.  A huge playground with a zipline appears and invariably Zola drops her backpack.  If a few minutes of fun equals walking without complaining, it is an excellent investment. 

In fact, the walking and biking trails are well organized and it would make for a fantastic future trip! And, the albergues private make for an economical accomodation. 

Albergue Navarrete- contact Angel who impressively has done the Camino de Santiago and the Temple pilgrimage in Japan

15euro per person 

We stayed at a basic Albergue which was completely adequate with only a few other pilgrims.  

We are such a messy lot that we immediately take up a corner of 4 bunks and our belongings immediately scattered like legos in the not so distant past. Juste comme ca!

Najera

17km walk with packs

Altitude climb about 100m- easy peasy

We walked through vineyards of the La Rioja region and it is harvest season.  Grapes were being picked along the way.  We didn’t try the grapes since they are likely full of pesticide.

As the hours slowly moved along, and our feet became sometimes we would discover fig trees and the variety of the fruit a slight green color like opaque celery hye

We wandered the the beautiful Monasterario de Santa Maria de Real.  Apparently, King Charles of Spain was hunting and the Virgin Mary appeared to him in a cave.  He then built a castle in dedication to her.   It has seen many different benefactors and a lot of statues in the cloister have lost their heads.  Likely due to French soldiers in the Napoleanic who used them for target practice! Mon Dieu! 

Belorado

Took the bus to Belorado on a rainy day.  We welcomed the chance to use rain gear since it does impact the weight of our bag. We arrived into Belorado and stayed at an intimate pension.

We arrived into Belorado and stayed at an intimate pension Casa Wasalala. It is run a by lovely couple from Holland and Nicaragua. We had our own private room and use of our own bathroom down the hall.  You can see the castle ruin above in the hills from the bathroom  

We had lovely pilgrim  dinner for 15 euros each at Cuatro Catones.  An albergue is attached to the restaurant and it was full of pilgrims.  It wasn’t exactly communal but since we were all pilgrims, we all chatted with one another and reminisced about the days events.

Even though you walk for hours, there is always some observation to note and share with others.  That is the way of the Camino. 

We had a hearty American breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, and sausage with yogurt, granola, coffee, fresh OJ and hot chocolate that was not a powder mix.  All the OJ in spain at the bars are freshly squeezed and it is delicious!!!

Atapuerca de Olmos

We decided to take our time in the morning and because we couldn’t find a accommodation  in the next stage a San Juan de Ortega we knew a 30km was not going to fit with the kids or even us adults.  Luckily, found a private room with in Atapuerca de Olmos.

Paul, one half of the Holland/Nicaragua couple drove us to Villafranca de Montes de Oca.  From there it was a 18km day to Atapuerca.

There was an easy climb up (anything is easy after crossing the Pyrenees) to the monument of the dead after VillaFranca.  In 1936 during the Spanish civil war anyone supporting the coup of Franco was shot dead and thrown into a mass grave. In fact, we’ve seen a few along the way to Logroño.

We walk through a forest with rolling hills and endless views of gold colored fields.  We were bundled in our fleece, gloves, buffs and puffy jackets.  Our journey today was mostly under cloud cover and when 18km is on the agenda that certainly can be beneficial.  The lack of shade along the path provided glimpses of warm sun rays  which is helpful.  Especially on this stretch since no water fountains were available until Atapuerca!.

Zola and I were walking along and 2 Italians took pictures with us!  They were proud of Zola for walking the Camino.  We have not encountered any children along our journey.

On our way to San Juan de Ortega, we encountered a domesticated pig!  We love seeing these animals.  She was happy to meet us and let us pet her.  She laid down and thoroughly enjoyed getting her belly rubbed.  These moments of spontaneous joy invigorates the walk just when you feel exhaustion is creeping up into your mind and body.

We saw a few pilgrims we know relaxing  at the Cantina.  We still had 8km to go. From the ridge, you could see endless  rolling hills with neat rows of gold and green dotted with terracotta roofed houses.  We descended into Agés, a tiny little village with 2 or 3 Albergues and they were full!

We continued our walk to Atapuerca and when we arrived we rewarded ourselves with a Estrella Damn (cerveza), Tinto Verano ( red wine and Kas limón) and 2 Kas de naranja.  We just relaxed until the local tienda opened to purchase our dinner.

There is a lovely satellite archeological museum in Atapuerca.  It has recently discovered one the oldest human remains on the European continent.  In fact, in the Sierras of Atapuerca is treasure trove of human history.  We plan to visit the Museo de La Evolución Humana (MEH).  Carmen, the docent, fue muy simpatica  y pasionanté de cosas archqueología.  Yo hablé con ella para mucho tiempo.

Finally, we were picked up by our host for the 2km distance to the pensión.  A bedroom with private bathroom! What every pilgrim is ecstatic about, at least, this pilgrim family

Burgos

Atapuerca to Burgos via Castañares

Another 18km day

We started out from Olmos which is a bit north from Atapuerca. 

We climbed up a hill and encountered 2 pilgrims who were lost.  Susan and Seth from Florida.

We followed our hosts advice and continued to walk uphill.  Its easy to forget to look back and see a valley of life behind you. No view is the same nor is it anything like we see in Los Angeles. No tall buildings, no noise.  Just the rustling of gravel beneath our feet and wind rushing past our ears.

We get to the top.  The antennas are to the right and Rosa said go left from the antennas and then you will see the 6 meter cross and surely, you will find pilgrims.

The men wanted to steer towards the antennas because of the map.  The women said let’s follow the route described to us.  In just a few short minutes we see other backpackers, the towering cross and the quintessential shell and yellow arrow pointing you in the direction of Santiago.  

BTW, as Susan and I talked she mentioned she has a sister in the same part of LA as us.  And, literally, within blocks.  The world is small.

We extended our walk by 4km to avoid walking on the highway with the camións.  Because, who wants to walk by those!!!!!  OMG, it is always too close for comfort. We didn’t dare tell the kids because they would have killed us.  We walked by a small community airport of Burgos was in Castañares.

Here the Camino deviates via following the main road on a separate path or via the river.  We chose the latter, Rio Arlazan and took that all the way to center Burgos.  It was a foot path on dirt and gravel, but it was peaceful and we encountered only 1 other pilgrim on their bike.

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Villebois-lavalette

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Until the last minute, just before taking the taxi, we were still packing up and sorting out the final arrangements for the rental of the house, vehicle sales, cat sitting and much more.

Saint Saturnin les Apts

Thanks to the warm welcome of my cousin, we can breathe and appreciate the wonderful assets of the region.

Magnificent little town in the north of salon de provence. We stayed there for three days, including a memorable one swimming near the Fort de Brégançon, the presidential summer residence.

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