The first 2 weeks were in France with family getting our bearings together and just enjoying the moment of leaving the states. Did that really happen??? Incroyable!
Saint Jean Pied de Port
We started the Camino de Santiago on Monday 9/12/22 with a train ride and bus to Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP- altitude 200m) The town was bustling with pilgrims. The line to the Pilgrim’s office was lengthy and everyone was fresh faced and excited. It is staffed with volunteers and the languages ranged from English, Spanish and French, German and Dutch. To think a few Mondays before, we were back in the states working and getting our lives ready for this journey.
Plenty of gites were full in town with September still being the busy Pilgrim season and hence we walked 1km uphill to our village de vacance. Why not start with a place up a hill!! It was a beautiful spot to spend 2 days- schooling for a day, enjoying the pool and volleyball courts whilst preparing for the Camino. We’re always preparing for something- LOL!
Orisson
We decided to break up our first stage of the Camino from SJPP to Roncesvalles by staying overnight in the lovely Auberge d’Orisson (altitude 800). It was a steep climb and took us just shy of 4 hours. We trimmed our 1 year travel backpacks, but nothing is light enough for this pilgrimage. We slept in 2 single rooms with shared bathrooms. It was reminiscent of post university traveling. We were allotted a 5 minute hot shower that was token operated! Everyone deserves a hot shower after that steep hike. In the evening, there was a communal meal with, at least, 50 other pilgrims from all over the world. Japan, Puerto Rico, Brazil, Bulgaria, plenty of Canadians, Americans, French and Germans. During dessert Refuge d’Orisson has a wonderful tradition of introducing yourself and why you are walking the Camino de Santiago. Everyone had a chance to speak and all tried their best to speak in English, which turned out to be the universal language of the night. Lights out at 2200
Roncesvalles
Orisson to Roncesvalles 18km walk Altitude gain to 1400m
Rise and shine at 0615
Backpacks ready (6kg to 12kg) – yes, they were heavy
We left at 0800 and arrived at 1530
In the movie, The Sound of Music, Maria sings of the hills are alive. Well… walking from Orisson to Roncesvalles crossing the mountain range of the Pyrerees was more lively than you can imagine. The green rolling hills against the crisp morning light can make anyone feel mankind is joyful and your troubles are miles away.
Albergue de Roncesvalles has capacity for about 240 pilgrims and they had already opened up the basement for the excess pilgrims. Anyone without a spot was offered a shuttle to another village that had room. Luckily, for us, we prebooked 2 days prior to departure. This Albergue included a meal with wine for dinner at the restaurant next door. We dined with an American, a Finn, and Frenchman – it almost sounds like the start of a joke 🙂
Pamploma and Estella
The next day instead of walking we took the bus past Pamplona to Estella where we stayed for 2 nights. Catch up on school work and other home issues.
Los Arcos and Sansol
Estella to Los Arcos to Sansol
25 km to Los Arcos and another 9 km to Sansol
This distance took us through rolling hills and endless fields of already cut wheat. Wheat for bread, beer and the animals. The sun was beating down on us and again, those packs…
Our hiking sticks were extremely stabilizing. They helped propel us forward and balance our torsos. The path offered very little shade except for a collection of trees off the path. Pilgrims would congregcame to get respite from the afternoon sun. We laid down onthe rocks, dirt and grass listened to the breeze . Ate our apples, oranges and melted chocolate wafers. We were content with brief snack.
It was 7.5 hr walk to Arcos and when we arrived, we took a taxi to Sansol as there was no way our feet were taking us anywhere else. There was a beautiful square and church filled with pilgrims but no one could care less. Mutiny was in the air! The taxi to Sanso was worth the 20 euros.
We stayed in lovely Palacio de Sansol that was a 300 year palace and converted to a private Albergue a few years back.
Logrono
Sansol to Logrono
18 km walk
Used baggage transport – We used Jacotrans for 5euros a bag to take our bags to our place in Logrono.
Ironically, we had to be creative with how we held our food and water since normally our backpacks held them nicely.
Still 7.5 hours walk because we are slow and have to stop a few times
Fiesta de San Mateo for this week.
It seems like a long slog…. Because it has been but honestly, it has been appealing.
We have been troubled on multiple occasions, but it all seems to work out.
Navarrete
Logrono to Navarrete
15km
As we left Logrono you pass a beautiful park. A huge playground with a zipline appears and invariably Zola drops her backpack. If a few minutes of fun equals walking without complaining, it is an excellent investment.
In fact, the walking and biking trails are well organized and it would make for a fantastic future trip! And, the albergues private make for an economical accomodation.
Albergue Navarrete- contact Angel who impressively has done the Camino de Santiago and the Temple pilgrimage in Japan
15euro per person
We stayed at a basic Albergue which was completely adequate with only a few other pilgrims.
We are such a messy lot that we immediately take up a corner of 4 bunks and our belongings immediately scattered like legos in the not so distant past. Juste comme ca!
Najera
17km walk with packs
Altitude climb about 100m- easy peasy
We walked through vineyards of the La Rioja region and it is harvest season. Grapes were being picked along the way. We didn’t try the grapes since they are likely full of pesticide.
As the hours slowly moved along, and our feet became sometimes we would discover fig trees and the variety of the fruit a slight green color like opaque celery hye
We wandered the the beautiful Monasterario de Santa Maria de Real. Apparently, King Charles of Spain was hunting and the Virgin Mary appeared to him in a cave. He then built a castle in dedication to her. It has seen many different benefactors and a lot of statues in the cloister have lost their heads. Likely due to French soldiers in the Napoleanic who used them for target practice! Mon Dieu!
Belorado
Took the bus to Belorado on a rainy day. We welcomed the chance to use rain gear since it does impact the weight of our bag. We arrived into Belorado and stayed at an intimate pension.
We arrived into Belorado and stayed at an intimate pension Casa Wasalala. It is run a by lovely couple from Holland and Nicaragua. We had our own private room and use of our own bathroom down the hall. You can see the castle ruin above in the hills from the bathroom 🙂
We had lovely pilgrim dinner for 15 euros each at Cuatro Catones. An albergue is attached to the restaurant and it was full of pilgrims. It wasn’t exactly communal but since we were all pilgrims, we all chatted with one another and reminisced about the days events.
Even though you walk for hours, there is always some observation to note and share with others. That is the way of the Camino.
We had a hearty American breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, and sausage with yogurt, granola, coffee, fresh OJ and hot chocolate that was not a powder mix. All the OJ in spain at the bars are freshly squeezed and it is delicious!!!
Atapuerca de Olmos
We decided to take our time in the morning and because we couldn’t find a accommodation in the next stage a San Juan de Ortega we knew a 30km was not going to fit with the kids or even us adults. Luckily, found a private room with in Atapuerca de Olmos.
Paul, one half of the Holland/Nicaragua couple drove us to Villafranca de Montes de Oca. From there it was a 18km day to Atapuerca.
There was an easy climb up (anything is easy after crossing the Pyrenees) to the monument of the dead after VillaFranca. In 1936 during the Spanish civil war anyone supporting the coup of Franco was shot dead and thrown into a mass grave. In fact, we’ve seen a few along the way to Logroño.
We walk through a forest with rolling hills and endless views of gold colored fields. We were bundled in our fleece, gloves, buffs and puffy jackets. Our journey today was mostly under cloud cover and when 18km is on the agenda that certainly can be beneficial. The lack of shade along the path provided glimpses of warm sun rays which is helpful. Especially on this stretch since no water fountains were available until Atapuerca!.
Zola and I were walking along and 2 Italians took pictures with us! They were proud of Zola for walking the Camino. We have not encountered any children along our journey.
On our way to San Juan de Ortega, we encountered a domesticated pig! We love seeing these animals. She was happy to meet us and let us pet her. She laid down and thoroughly enjoyed getting her belly rubbed. These moments of spontaneous joy invigorates the walk just when you feel exhaustion is creeping up into your mind and body.
We saw a few pilgrims we know relaxing at the Cantina. We still had 8km to go. From the ridge, you could see endless rolling hills with neat rows of gold and green dotted with terracotta roofed houses. We descended into Agés, a tiny little village with 2 or 3 Albergues and they were full!
We continued our walk to Atapuerca and when we arrived we rewarded ourselves with a Estrella Damn (cerveza), Tinto Verano ( red wine and Kas limón) and 2 Kas de naranja. We just relaxed until the local tienda opened to purchase our dinner.
There is a lovely satellite archeological museum in Atapuerca. It has recently discovered one the oldest human remains on the European continent. In fact, in the Sierras of Atapuerca is treasure trove of human history. We plan to visit the Museo de La Evolución Humana (MEH). Carmen, the docent, fue muy simpatica y pasionanté de cosas archqueología. Yo hablé con ella para mucho tiempo.
Finally, we were picked up by our host for the 2km distance to the pensión. A bedroom with private bathroom! What every pilgrim is ecstatic about, at least, this pilgrim family 🙂
Burgos
Atapuerca to Burgos via Castañares
Another 18km day
We started out from Olmos which is a bit north from Atapuerca.
We climbed up a hill and encountered 2 pilgrims who were lost. Susan and Seth from Florida.
We followed our hosts advice and continued to walk uphill. Its easy to forget to look back and see a valley of life behind you. No view is the same nor is it anything like we see in Los Angeles. No tall buildings, no noise. Just the rustling of gravel beneath our feet and wind rushing past our ears.
We get to the top. The antennas are to the right and Rosa said go left from the antennas and then you will see the 6 meter cross and surely, you will find pilgrims.
The men wanted to steer towards the antennas because of the map. The women said let’s follow the route described to us. In just a few short minutes we see other backpackers, the towering cross and the quintessential shell and yellow arrow pointing you in the direction of Santiago.
BTW, as Susan and I talked she mentioned she has a sister in the same part of LA as us. And, literally, within blocks. The world is small.
We extended our walk by 4km to avoid walking on the highway with the camións. Because, who wants to walk by those!!!!! OMG, it is always too close for comfort. We didn’t dare tell the kids because they would have killed us. We walked by a small community airport of Burgos was in Castañares.
Here the Camino deviates via following the main road on a separate path or via the river. We chose the latter, Rio Arlazan and took that all the way to center Burgos. It was a foot path on dirt and gravel, but it was peaceful and we encountered only 1 other pilgrim on their bike.
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